Leh winter Treks

Leh from the top

 Our Experience of Leh:

Trek Preparations

I am always skeptical about traveling with people, as I believe my thought process and theirs might differ. But this notion of mine was put to rest by the last trip we did to Leh. Our friends had gone on Chadar trek (frozen river trek for 8days) through Indiahikes a year before, and the pics were so mesmerizing that my heart kept telling me to go and my brain always refused. After mulling over the option of trekking for months, we finally got the push to go forward with our plan when we got very cheap air ticket (2.8K to and fro) from Delhi to Leh (cheap airfare was our driving force..hehehe). The same day we got our slot booked for chadar trek (this trek happens on Zanskar river for 7-8 days every year only for a month; Jan mid to Feb mid). This trek does not require professional trekking experience, but then some level of fitness more

What is there in Ladakh winter treks?

The magnificent Leh

Ladakh is a beautiful place, and the snow during winters is an embellishment to its beauty. The place is filled with adventurous activities and the awe-inspiring beauty of picturesque mountains and crystal clear skies.
There are a lot of monasteries in Leh such as the famous one -Thiksey, there are also many small villages in and around Leh and each one is more beautiful than the other. We had an opportunity to visit couple of them during the trek. We visited:

The view of monasteries at Lamayuru

a. Lamayuru: it is a beautiful village well connected with Leh-Srinagar highway(NH1), it has a beautiful monastry which reminds you of Cappadoccia of Turkey. We camped here for the first night and the minimum temperature that we saw was -18C.

The Pinkrila pass – the destination to climb on the first day of our trek

The way between the canyons – one of the best experiences of the trek

b. Wan-La: The trek from Lamayuru to Wan-la is about 13.4 kms and you have to cross Pinkrila pass which was at a height of 3600m. This trek is moderate, and it passes through small canyons and valleys. Finally, you cross a stream to enter this place.

The first experience of walking on the frozen river

Hard Ice – way slippery than snow

c. Phanji La: The trek to this place from Wan-la is more of a road trek, but if you detoure your way and enter a small frozen river running along the road, it becomes an interesting trek. Once you reach Phanji La, you can also trek on the frozen stream further to Hanumata. We however, went about 5kms upstream from Phanji la and returned, but the view was really amazing and we liked the challenges the stream had for us.

The trek in the snow – an arduous experience filled with lot of snow.. 🙂

This is the view of the valley from where we made our descend back to Hinju

Ahh – the closer view of the slippery surface

d. Hinju: Situated in the cradle of a mountain valley, this village is calm and serene. We (tried to) trekked from this village to Konskila pass. There was knee high snow which made it very difficult to walk . This was one of the great experience we had. While returning from the pass to the village, we took the frozen stream. Since the stream was slippery, we had to sit on our bottom and skid on the stream. It was both hilarious and painful experience, as stopping for a minute used to get our bottom glued to the ice.

The view of the mountains from Sakti

Evening walk in Sakti

e. Sakti: This is on the way to Pangong Tso from Leh, situated after the police check post for Pangong. This was the most beautiful village that we have seen in our life. It was snowing when we reached Sakti and we instantly fell in love with this place. The view was so mesmerizing that we all went speechless and the silence between us said all. This place gets really cold because of the chilly winds, we experienced a temperature of -21C at this place.
What winter treks are possible in Ladakh?

Spectacular view of the Zanskar and Indus meeting

1. Chadar trek : Walking on frozen Zanskar river
2. Nubra valley : Scenic, snowy walk
3. Sham Valley : Scenic, snowy walk
4. Lamayuru- Zanskar trek : the original one which we had planned, but we had to divert to other route as mentioned above.
5. Pangong: Though a risky trek, but people do trek on the frozen Pangong lake

How to reach Leh?

Fly: There are many flights from Delhi-Leh.
Road: During winters, the road from Manali is closed but the road from the Srinagar(NH1) remains open.

Where to stay during winter treks?

The frozen river – the layering effect of ice

If you are doing Chadar and other known treks then obviously you will be staying in tents. But if you end up going on a mixed trek like us then staying in homestays in villages is the best thing. If you want to experience the real Ladakh, I would suggest taking homestays, they are a perfect and best possible way to know more about the life in villages of Ladakh.

In Leh, there are many hotels, and you can choose from a very expensive one to cheap ones.

What is the best time in winter to visit?

The ice road

Third highest motorable pass in the world

Finally, we reached Pangong lake after 2 unsuccessful attempts

Serenity found at the lake

En route to Pangong – the wildlife sanctuary

Pangong lake at its best

   

The best time to visit is from mid-Jan to mid-Feb. Leh is exceptionally cold during December, and the snow starts melting after mid-Feb, thereby making it quite difficult terrain to walk.

What things you need to carry?

For winters you need a lot of things to carry with you: woolen cap, torch(preferably head torch), down jacket, gloves(woolen and waterproof), waterproof track pants, woolen socks and waterproof shoes (Quechua Forclaz 500,600 etc.). The most important thing that you need to keep in mind is to dress in layers, the thickness might not matter that much but layering is essential – 4 to 5 layers. Most of the things will be mentioned by the trekking company with which you are going, but naming a few things which we realized one should have:

1. Extra batteries for all the gadgets you are carrying
2. Buy woolen socks from Leh
3. Listerine
4. Hot water bags
5. Few pairs of gloves as you will need them day in day out.

Thiksey monastery – Leh

View from the monestry

How to book your winter treks?

There are many agencies that you can book your trek with – Indiahikes, burn the boundaries, Trek the Himalayas, etc. Never book it with Trek The Himalayas – NEVER – they are the worst. These guys are not professional, nor are they considerate, once they take your money they will be done with you.

The other way and cheap way is to go to Leh and hire a local there. But it will be better if you are in a group otherwise it will be quite expensive.

Leh at its best – the sunset

How to save your money?

Most of the stuff that you need for trekking can be rented from Indian Mountaineering Foundation in Delhi. We rented down jacket, waterproof track pants, shoes, and gloves. All the things that we rented from IMF were in good condition and also were not expensive. You can buy woolen socks from Leh itself, this will be a cheaper and a better option.

Gangtok

Gangtok/Sikkim

What is there in Gangtok/ Sikkim?

The view from our hotel

Best place to have b’fast…Don’t you agree..??

Gangtok , at an elevation of 5,410 ft is  one of the most beautiful cities in India and is the capital of Sikkim. India’s highest peak Khangchendzonga of a height of 28,169ft (3rd highest in the world) is here and there is an amazing trek in Khangchendzonga National Park, which starts from Yuksom , 125km away from Gangtok. Gangtok is the base point of many beautiful places in Sikkim such as Nathula Pass, Gurudongmar Lake, Lachen, Lachung, Yumthang and many more. It has both the natural beauty and city appeal to it. MG road which is always full of people, has clubs, restaurants (it has some very beautiful cafes) and shopping stores. Sikkim has so much to offer, if you are interested in trekking or paragliding , or you just want to sit and relax or you want to visit second highest lake in India , this is the place to be. It is the place for solo travelers, family vacations, honeymooners, or a trip with friends.

The place for walking…I have not seen that in cities like Delhi..Gangtok seems to be way ahead

We noticed two amazing things in Gangtok ,one, they have a small walking trail which is fenced on both sides, hence very safe for children to walk around the city (mountains) and two, they actually have a very operable government tourism centre on MG road. If you are going then do check this place to know more about trekking trips.

When to visit Gangtok?

The view of from Gangtok

It was cold in April also…

The beautiful flags in Sikkim

Moving out of Sikkim to Gurudongmar

Crossing the bridges

Gangtok’s temperature varies from 22 degree C in summers to 4 degree C in winters. It does not get any snowfall but it does rain a lot there. We had visited Gangtok in April, and it was very pleasant. Summer(May-June) is the peak season hence prices are high and during monsoon(July –September) it rains a lot , so it is bit risky to travel in this season. The best times to visit Gangtok is October to December. During this time you can visit nearby places, but in Jan and Feb (depending on the snowfall), some routes might remain close. So if you are planning to travel then make a few calls to the hotels or information centres and then only book for vacation. Route to Gurudongmar closes in Jan and opens in March/ April depending on that year.

Where to stay in Gangtok?

Gangtok has many hotels, lodges and inns. So you can have a luxurious stay at Welcome Heritage Denzong Residency or a budget stay in Shilton Lodge. Check booking.com to book your stay.

How to reach Gangtok?

One of the Seven waterfalls near Gangtok

• By Train : The nearest railway station to Gangtok is about 148 kilometres away at New Jalpaiguri in Siliguri. From here you can take a private cab (they charge around 2k) or you can take shared cab (200 Rs pp).
• By Air : The airport nearest to Gangtok is about 124 kilometres away in Bagdogra, West Bengal. You have to take a taxi to reach the city.

What to visit near or in Gangtok?

You can’t cover all the places near to Gangtok in a short trip. So depending on the time you have in hand, you can plan which places you would like to visit. Below are few such places:

1. Gurudongmar : Second highest lake of India. Only Indians are allowed here, foreigners are only allowed till Chopta valley.  Lachen is the nearest place where nigh stay is possible. If going via Gangtok then night stay is necessary at Lachen, leave for this early morning.

   

   Gurudongmar Lake

   

   The beautiful way to the second highest lake in India

   

   En route to Gurudongmar lake

    

2. Chopta Valley: Foreigners are allowed till this point only, it is also a very great valley and trekking in Chopta valley is an experience in itself. The trekking is easy and for a day only.

   

   Chopta Valley

3. Yumthang Valley : A beautiful valley or wind tunnel. Lachung is the nearest place where nigh stay is possible. It is a three 3 day trip

   

   The Yumthang valley

   

4. Zero Point : A complete snow ridden area with natural geysers and breathtaking views. It is above Yumthang valley and this can be completed along with the trip to Yumthang valley. It is a must go place

   

   Majestic view at Zero Point

5. Nathula Pass : A  mountain pass that connects India to China. A beautiful destination. It’s a day trip. It requires permit so get the work done a day before (Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays are only visit able days)

   

   Gangtok main city

   

6. Lake Tsomgo : Is one of the magnificient lake at height of 12310ft. It’s a day trip. Permissions are needed to visit this lake.
7. Pelling : A small town near Gangtok with beautiful view. There are hotels available here.
8. Darjeeling : Hill station in West Bengal.

There are many such beautiful places near Gangtok which are must visits.

How to travel within Gangtok?

Travelling in Gangtok

The grandeur of nature

Near MG road there is a taxi stand from where you can get shared taxi or private taxi to move around Gangtok. For longer journeys check tourist information centre on MG road.

What are must carry things to Gangtok?

The beautiful eastern Himalayas

 Umbrella, sunglasses, woollen wear and good camera. Though everything is available in Gangtok.

What was our experience at Gangtok?

The best thing about Gangtok is the people of Gangtok. They are all well dressed and very good in etiquette . We never felt that we are being cheated and most of the people were polite. We had really awesome experience at Gangtok. The journey to Sikkim was quite tiresome as we took the train and then shared taxi, There was too much dust on the way as there was construction of road going on but other than that It was good and we enjoyed our stay.

The food of sikkm was also very great, we tried once and we fell in love with it. If you are going there then do try their traditional food it is nice and different.

Also, a short trip wont do justice to Sikkim, we had gone to Sikkim for 9days and we still haven’t seen 10% of it. But we had prioritized the places we wanted to visit, hence we choose Gurudongmar (Cholamu is the highest lake of India, 1km ahead of Gurudongmar but civilians are not allowed to visit it).

Gurudongmar Lake

Gurudongmar Lake

 

Gurudongmar – The Frozen beauty

What is special about Gurudongmar Lake?

Whats so special you say – A picture speaks more than 1000 words

The board at the Lake

Gurudongmar lake is second highest lake of India (15th or 16th highest of the world), with the height of about 17,000 ft (5210 m) above sea level. The highest lake of India, Cholamu, is around a kilometre away from Gurudongmar but its not open to civilians at it lies near China border ( both are in Sikkim). Hence Gurudongmar is highest visit-able lake of India. Its impossible to explain how beautiful the lake is.

When to visit Gurudongmar Lake?

En route to India’s highest visit-able lake

Around April start ( depends on the winter ) the route to the lake gets open and it remains open till late October (again depends on the winter that year). So do check before hand.

How to reach Gurudongmar Lake?

One always walk alone on the roads less travelled

One tends to lose the way if he/she doesn’t see the destination but keep going my friend you will find the way

The Flora must have abandon
leaving one side ice and other side barren

Once you reach Gangtok, book a cab for Gurudongmar lake a day in advance. There are many travel agents, most reliable is Sikkim Tourism house which is on the Gangtok MG road. Don’t think of driving as the terrain is very rough and requires a lot of skill to drive on those roads.

Any health issues we should be concerned with?

The lake is at a very good height so expect the air to be thin so it gets difficult to breath. Since you will be in a vehicle and not walking much, so there should not be any problem. We had headache when we reached the lake. One of the family came with a kid, so there should not be any issue while travelling with kids.

Note: carry lot of water and keep sipping on it to nullify the altitude health issues.

What does the Gurudongmar package include?

One just cannot put price on such thing – the ice, the river and the desert all at once

The grandeur of nature makes you realize how insignificant you are

The whole trip is usually for 3 days and costs about 14000 Rs ( you can customize it according to your needs), which includes travelling cost , breakfast, lunch, dinner, accommodation.

Accommodation is usually a mediocre hotel ( don’t expect anything in decor). Night stays will be in two small villages: Lachen and Lachung and nothing much is present there except natural beauty.

What Itinerary should be followed for Gurudongmar lake?

Itinerary is hardest part you say – try taking a bath in the lake at 0 degree temp

If you have booked a cab then you don’t need to worry about anything but then you can customize a few places in the itinerary.

The travel route is Gangtok – Lachen – Gurudongmar lake – Lachung – Yumthang Valley – Zero Point – Chopta Valley – Gangtok.

• Leave Gangtok around 9 am.
• Reach Lachen (110 km from Gangtok), takes almost 6 hrs as you will make many pit stops on the way.
• Stay overnight in Lachen.
• Leave at 3 am for Gurudongmar Lake.
• Reach Gurudongmar Lake around 8 am ( takes 4 hrs from Lachen)
• Spend an hour or two at the Lake ( you wont be able to stay there for long roads to the lake are very bad and in Mountains at 17000 ft it might rain anytime, making it impossible to travel.
• Go back to Lachen, have lunch and leave for Lachung ( it takes around 2-3 hrs depending on the weather)
• Stay overnight in Lachung.
• Leave for Yumthang Valley ( hour or two drive). Stay there for hour or two.
• Leave for Zero point. Spend sometime ( depending on your stamina) in snow.
• Leave for Chopta valley( stayed there for 5mins, because of the wind). Stay there for sometime.
• Leave for Gangtok. Reach around 8 pm.

What is must for Gurudongmar Lake?

We are confused whether the road to destination was better or the destination itself

• You need to provide identity documents ( passport, driving licence) to the travel agent a day before the trip as its a must
• Take warm clothes (hooded jackets or cap and woollen wear)
• Take some packed food (though the agents usually provide breakfast, lunch and dinner but then you will require something to munch on) as you will not find shops on the way
• A good camera

PS: Pan cards are not considered as valid Identification proof in Sikkim

What was our experience of Gurudongmar Lake?

Because of the weather we weren’t able to stay at the lake for long but then its worth the travel and money to stay there for even an hour. Its a magnificent place. If you are planning a trip to Sikkim then make sure you keep minimum 3 days for this whole experience.